Restaurant review: The Plough And Harrow Hotel in Edgbaston

Apr 11 2009 Review by Lorne Jackson

A BLUE plaque next to the front door of The Plough And Harrow Hotel proudly proclaims that JRR Tolkien visited the premises in 1906.

It’s entirely possible that Tolkien’s fellow guests on that auspicious occasion continue to frequent the establishment, 103 years down the line.

Because, apart from my youthful and vigorous party of diners, the Plough’s patrons were all very elderly.

How elderly?

Well, there were more creases, folds and wrinkles on show than you’d find at the Origami Olympics.

And so many grey hairs, we could have stumbled upon an international convention of Robert Kilroy-Silk smirk-a-likes.

I can understand why the hotel attracts the older diner; it’s a mature sort of place reminiscent of visits to granny.

Wandering into the lobby, everything becomes sepia-tinted.

The carpet pattern is busier than a UN translator on the brink of World War III, while the paintings on the walls are the sort used on the front covers of Penguin Classics, or old-style biscuit tins.

A TV in the corner definitely struck the wrong note – it was far too modern a gizmo.

Especially as it was broadcasting a Jenson Button Grand Prix skirmish.

Considering the surroundings, it would have made more sense if Button had been racing to victory in a coach and horses.

But what about the food?

Well, that also reminded me of past times. Hearty fare – although short on flair.