Food review: The Public

Sep 29 2008 By Lorne Jackson

I’VE always been a rebel.

Throughout the Midlands, I’m known as the Jimmy Dean of the dining scene – Steve McQueen munching mean cuisine.

Even in Sunday Mercury Towers I’m discussed in hushed tones as: “That devil-may-care outsider who plays by his own rules.”

Other reporters are content to be slaves to the stifling conventions of grammar when filing their copy.

But I isn’t.

I even refuse to agree with all the stories the Sunday Mercury prints.

For instance, the Merc has relentlessly slammed the development of The Public, the controversial art venue plonked in the centre of West Bromwich.

The world’s greatest paper has argued that it’s a bigger waste of cash than hiring a stylist for the Elephant Man.

Yet when I gaze upon this so-called monstrosity, I always gasp: “Ooh! Wow! Spiffy! Delightful!” The wibble-wobble windows, I find endearing.

Even if they do look like they’re straight out of Telletubby Town.

And I know the cubey-ness of the construction would horrify Prince Charles. But it delights me.

Probably because I know it would horrify old Big Ears.

However, I will grudgingly concede that, so far, the building has failed to evolve into the massive cultural boon to the community that its creators claimed it would be.

That doesn’t mean it should be written off. After all, it does boast a bright and cheerful restaurant on the ground floor.

And, unlike most parts of the building, it’s in full working order.

That’s not all, folks,

Couture – which is the restaurant’s name – is one of the best dining destinations in West Brom.

Okay, as achievements go, that’s not on a par with winning gold in the Olympic 100 metres.

It’s more like bagging bronze in the school sports day egg and spoon race.

West Brom isn’t exactly fending off a plague of great restaurants.

Instead, it’s bound in chains.

Chain restaurants, that is, with their usual supply of charmless chomp.

Which is why Couture should be treasured.

Although the more conventional locals will be shocked by the inside of the building, which is a full on wack attack.

With its floor-to-ceiling pink windows, glowing then fading lights, and madcap mix of building materials, it could easily be a conservatory in Doctor Who’s Tardis.

Luckily the food’s much less alien, since the produce has been sourced locally. I started with the soup of the day (£3.50), a very rich celery concoction, which came with bloomer bread.

Though not enough to soak up my soup.

Although, to be fair, a big city bakery wouldn’t have been able to produce enough loaves to soak-up all my soup.

The bowl was huge.

Celery soup? More like a banker’s salary. However, Riki was given the perfect amount of spinach and tomato tart (£4.50).

The flavours were also close to perfection.

My fish cakes (£6.95) were packed with salmon, pollock and coley, and so fluffy they could have replaced Fiona Phillips on the GMTV couch.

Riki’s roast chicken (£6.95) came with vegetables, sautéed potatoes and a home-made gravy, that wasn’t too thick.

(Meaning it had no chance of replacing Fiona on the GMTV couch.)

Our cuisine-crunching kid, Ben, also enjoyed fish cakes from the children’s menu (£3.95), though his dish arrived with chunky chips and peas.

Kids meals are often an after-thought for a chef.

Not the case, here.

The food was lovingly prepared, as though cooked for a full-sized restaurant reviewer.

Very impressive.

The Public may be a mangled mess on many levels, but its restaurant provides one saving grace.

Although don’t tell anyone from the Merc I told you so, because I wouldn’t like to be fired just yet.

I may be a rebel without a cause – but I’m also a rebel with rent to pay.

* Total (including drinks and tip): £35. Couture, The Public, West Bromwich, tel: 0121 533 7141.